wonderful winthrop part ii - winter

As I mentioned in my last posting, I had the opportunity to return to Winthrop two weekends ago.  And what an opportunity it was!  Winthrop, while always quite lovely, becomes even more spectacular under a blanket of snow.  As with Chelan, I was completely and utterly charmed by the town in winter, despite its decidedly sleepier demeanor.   This time of year, most of the shops on the main street are closed for the season, including the candy shop (very disappointing, indeed).  This situation is not surprising, however, given the winter decrease in tourism and the seasonal closure of Highway 20.  Even still, it is fun to walk around, window shop and enjoy the town’s Wild West feel. 

Luckily, one of the businesses that stays open throughout the winter is the Lost River Winery, which was our first stop Saturday afternoon.  You cannot miss Lost River as you come into town from the west, as it is directly on US 20 (luckily, the part that’s still open year round).  We actually went to this winery during our trip in September, and had such a nice experience we thought it would be fun to take Steve’s folks.  Unfortunately, the proprietor was not pouring my favorite (the Walla Walla Syrah) but we tried some other scrumptious wines that were new to us: the 2008 Merlot (92% Merlot, 8 % Cabernet Franc) and the Cedarosa blend (45% Cabernet Franc 55% Merlot).  Recently, Steve and I have been surprised to try some very tasty merlots, which are usually not among our favorites.  We loved the aforementioned Lost River wines, and also tried a fantastic merlot a few weeks ago at our favorite winery, Woodward Canyon, in Walla Walla.  Convenient for both us and our wallets, the scrumptious, well-balanced merlots from Lost River are more within our price range than Woodward Canyon. Generally, the prices at Lost River are mid-range, from about $15-30 per bottle, depending on the wine and the vintage. We bought both the Merlot and the Cedarosa. 

After the wandering and wine, we returned to the cabin Steve’s parents were borrowing from friends in the Edelweiss development, west of town near Mazama.  Edelweiss is a community of mostly seasonal residents, though about 30% spend their winters there.  Unfortunately, the website for the community is rather uninspired and not really worth sharing, but suffice it to say that it is a nice community surrounded by tall trees with stunning views of the neighboring mountains.  If you have an opportunity to stay at a cabin there, I highly recommend it. Our cabin was spacious and comfortable, though the furnishings could use a good update, as they are all still straight out of the 1970’s.  We certainly couldn’t complain, though, as the price was right (free!), it was warm and comfortable.  Also, (unlike the décor) the mattresses looked brand new. 

 Saturday night we were invited to a party thrown by friends of Steve’s parents, whom they know through their biking club.  The party took place at the couples’ custom-built vacation home.  It was absolutely gorgeous.  The house, although small, felt very spacious with its modern, streamlined design, floor-to-ceiling windows, and open plan kitchen-dining-living area.  The large deck must make for great entertaining in the warmer months. It was a great setting to meet some nice folks and enjoy some wine, lasagna and good conversation.

During the time we had been window shopping and wine tasting, our hosts and most of the other guests had been cross-country skiing all day.  Here is the real beauty of Winthrop in winter: it’s totally gorgeous, there are few people, and it is a haven for winter sports, mainly cross country skiing and snowshoeing.  Of course, I only assume that it’s the beauty of it.  I have to admit that we were so focused on relaxing that neither Steve nor I, nor his parents, did anything more strenuous than walk off our huge Sunday breakfast the day after the party.  Luckily, Winthrop in winter is so nice and quiet, it also is a wonderful spot for relaxing.  The only one of us who got any real exercise, really, was Tess the family dog.  She had a lot of fun chasing snowballs and diving into the snow banks on either side of the road.  The humans loved the beautiful forest walk and the mountain views.

I can definitely see how people call Winthrop a town for all seasons.  After these two trips, I’m actually more partial to it in the winter than in the fall, though both were wonderful.  I will definitely be back to experience spring and summer, and of course I have to return again in winter actually try some of those famous winter activities!  We did not have time to see Sun Mountain Lodge on this trip, but I imagine it is also spectacular in winter.  Someday when we have more money, I would love to include a stay at Sun Mountain during a winter trip to Winthrop.  I cannot imagine a better place to snow shoe the nearby trails during the day, and relax in the evening with a coffee or hot toddy while snow falls outside.  Look, I’m already planning my next Winthrop vacations!  This place has that effect on you – it’s totally magical.  I suggest you strap on a pair of snowshoes and go right away!

wonderful winthrop part i - autumn

I have been lucky enough to visit the town of Winthrop in Washington’s stunning Methow Valley twice in the last six months.  This is no small feat, as Winthrop is not really close nor on the way to anything, and it sits on a seasonal highway which is closed several months of the year.  The last time I can remember going to Winthrop was when I was probably 8 or 9 years old.  My family stopped through for only an hour or so, as a side trip on the way to our usual vacation at Pine Point Resort in the Washington Okanogan.   

Although brief, that first trip to Winthrop made a big impression.  After all, what kid doesn’t love a town with a Wild West theme?  I adored the frontier-style buildings, especially since I had recently seen and enjoyed An American Tail 2: Fievel Goes West.  What I loved the most about Winthrop, however, was the candy store we happened upon while wandering through town.  My sister and I were in awe when we walked in the door.  The store had candy canes of every flavor, multicolored marshmallows, giant lollipops, ice cream, fudge and more.  Everything was shiny, brightly colored and made of sugar; we were in heaven.  Our savvy parents, who knew that saying “no”to us at this point would certainly result in a meltdown, told us that we could each choose one item to take with us and eat in the van.   

After careful deliberation over every item in that beautiful palace of sugar, Sonja and I both chose giant rainbow-colored lollipops bigger than our heads.  We climbed giddily into van with them and were completely excited about the candy for about 15 minutes, until we got bored with licking.  As it turned out, giant lollipops are a lot more exciting in theory than in practice. I don't remember exactly what happened to them, but my guess is that they ended up as sticky messes on the floor of the van.

Winthrop: the Wild West of Washington

No matter what happened to my lollipop that day, the memory of the candy shop was burned clearly into my mind when I returned to Winthrop with Steve this past September.  I wasn’t sure it would still be there after all these years.  So imagine my delight when I discovered it was not only still there, but it had also expanded to include an outdoor snack bar, seating area and miniature golf course.  Honestly, it would have been hard to miss, as it turned out to be right on Main Street, with giant signs on the outside advertising ice cream, espresso and house-made fudge.  When Steve and I walked into the original candy store (after a round of miniature golf, of course), I was shocked at how small it seemed.  What I had remembered as an endless shrine to all things sugary now seemed more like a deliciously-stocked kitchen pantry.  Have I really grown that much?  Apparently so.

Steve looking smug after beating me at mini golf

Anyway, believe it or not, finding the candy store was actually not our primary reason for returning to Winthrop after so many years.  The primary impetus for this vacation was actually to cash in a voucher for the Sun Mountain Lodge, which we had received for our wedding.  Sun Mountain Lodge is a rustic luxury getaway, about fifteen minutes out of the main part of town.  Unfortunately, even with our gift certificate and a special promotional rate, we could only afford to stay at Sun Mountain two nights.  So, to extend our vacation at a more reasonable price, we decided to stay first at nearby Wolf Ridge Resort.  

Steve suggested staying Wolf Ridge, as he had wonderful memories of staying there on family trips as a kid.  We liked Wolf Ridge – and the price was definitely right for us.  That said, however, it was good that we decided to start the trip there and then finish at Sun Mountain.  Whereas Sun Mountain is rustic luxury, Wolf Ridge is just, well, rustic.  The cabin we stayed in was clean and comfortable, but very basic.   If you ever end up staying there, I recommend bringing extra towels for the bathroom, and bring some of your own pots, pans and utensils if you plan to cook.  Also, bring warm pajamas!  Although the days were still quite warm in mid-September, the nights got chilly both outside and inside the cabin. 

Rustic surroundings aside, we did enjoy our short stay at Wolf Ridge. Perhaps the best feature of the resort was its proximity to town.  It was very convenient to go into Winthrop for meals, shopping and entertainment (and candy!). The resort is also quite large, and there is a lot of space for walking, hiking and biking.  Steve has particularly fond memories of running around the resort with his childhood dog, Zoe (Wolf Ridge is pet friendly, something that cannot be said for Sun Mountain).  Usually, Wolf Ridge has a hot tub and pool available for guest use, but it was closed when we were there.  

After two days at Wolf Ridge, it was time to cash in our certificate and spend a couple days of country-luxury at Sun Mountain Lodge.  The resort offers spacious and comfortable rooms, and wonderful facilities (library, sitting area, pool area) from which to relax and enjoy the view of the surrounding mountains.  The restaurants – one fine-dining, one pub-style - offer tasty food and more opportunities to drink in the scenery. 

  

Taken during a hike near Sun Mountain Lodge

Much to my delight and to Steve’s chagrin, the guest rooms do not have televisions.  However, the resort does offer a wide variety of activities for guests (no screens required).  Some activities are free, like hikes around the resort’s extensive property, and a variety of games in the game room, from ping pong to chess.  Other activities are offered at a cost, such as horseback riding, mountain biking, and many snow activities in winter.  Due to our financial constraints, we had to be content with the free activities on this trip.  Thankfully, these activities were more than enough to fill a couple of days.  We indulged in some swimming, Steve played pool in the games room while I flailed around with a cue, and we hiked in the gorgeous September sunshine.

All in all, our September trip to Winthrop was a wonderful, relaxing getaway.  I came away wishing to return in winter, as the pictures of town under a blanket of snow made it look even more appealing and no less entertaining. As it happens, my wish was granted just a couple of weeks ago by Steve’s parents, who make an annual trip to the town with their biking club.  Be sure to tune in next week to hear all about our winter Winthrop adventure!

ringing in 2012 - chelan

Isn’t it fitting that my first Eastern Washington Weekend adventure was over the New Year’s weekend?  New project, New year, new things to try, amiright?  

I have vacationed in Chelan once before.  Two girlfriends and I decided a couple of Labor Days ago to do a wine-tasting trip to Chelan and Wenatchee.  Have I mentioned that I love wine?  It’s going to come up a lot as this blog continues.

Anyway, when we planned this last-minute getaway, we decided to camp in an effort to save money.  It was a great idea in theory, but have you ever tried to make camping reservations one week before a holiday weekend in one of the state’s most popular vacation spots?  Yes?  Then you see our dilemma.  We nearly struck out in our efforts to secure a camping spot for the weekend.  However, my dear friend Marina is nothing if not persistent, and she managed to find us one of the last available spots to pitch a tent: a picnic table and a patch of lawn in the public riverfront park in a town called Entiat, a small town just off of Highway 97.  This spot, though not what we originally planned, worked out quite well for our weekend.  Sure, the camping spot could have been more private, and one couldn’t exactly have a campfire in the middle of what are normally just picnic grounds.  But the town’s location midway between Wenatchee and Chelan was certainly convenient, and the views of the water were actually quite wonderful from where we were.  

Once we got settled in the park along with about a hundred of our fellow last-minute-campers, we proceeded to have a lovely weekend and taste a variety of wine.  A surprising and wonderful wine tasting experience was in nearby Wenatchee, at Chateau Faire le Pont winery.  We admittedly had reservations about going to this French Country Estate replica in the middle of the city’s warehouse district, which aesthetically walked the line between charming and Olive Garden cheesy.  I am very glad that we went, though, as their wine was some of the best we tasted over the whole weekend.  Of particular note was their Meritage blend, which I purchased and later gave to my husband as a Christmas gift.  The wonderful wine and good company over the course of the weekend made up for some of the trip’s mishaps, like arriving at an all-outdoor tasting bar just before a torrential downpour, our camp stove breaking down after the first night, and our maple syrup and eggs breaking all over the other groceries in the car. 

Anyway, enough about that -back to the present.  On New Year’s Eve 2011, I found myself off to Chelan again.  This serendipitous occasion was brought on by an invitation to two of our dear friends, Anna and Sean, who both spent large portions of their childhoods in and around Chelan.  Thankfully, we were not camping on this trip, as the average temperature that weekend hovered between 18 and 35 degrees.  I had never been to Chelan in winter before, and I must say that I totally charmed by the winter landscape.  The partially frozen lake and the snow-kissed surrounding hills created something of a winter wonderland!  Perhaps the most charming experience of the whole weekend for me was that I had the opportunity to fulfill one of my lifelong dreams: to ice skate outside.

See, I come from Seattle, where snow is like magical fairy dust, something to celebrate and that warrants a day off work or school, even for just a light dusting.  The first time I ever saw a frozen lake was on a family trip to Minnesota in winter.  My sister and I had our faces pressed against the car window, amazed at what we were seeing, since the only time we’d seen frozen lakes and ponds was in movies and on old-timey ads.  We were 13 and 17. 

When I mention my skating outside fantasy to the people I know who come from Minnesota or Ontario or any such place that gets to ungodly temperatures in winter.  They usually humor me for a minute, then they patient explain to me why it’s not as cool as it sound.  They say that it’s too cold, the ice too uneven, better to just find something else to do.  Nevertheless, it has remained a romantic idea in my mind and still remains as such today.  So you can imagine my delight when I discovered that the Wapato Point condominiums had an outdoor ice skating rink and ice skate rentals on the property!  On New Year’s Day, I cajoled Anna to get out on the ice with me.  Our husbands were not convinced: Steve, because his center of balance does not allow him to do activities on slippery surfaces, and Sean probably out of solidarity with Steve.  They decided to hang out by the rink and hurl the occasional snowball as Anna and I did our best to skate around.  Yes, it was cold and the ice was uneven and there were probably other fun things we could have been doing, but it was wonderful.

Though I could have happily stayed on the rink all weekend, we did get a chance to see some sights enjoy other activities over the weekend.  A major highlight for Steve and me was visiting Sean’s grandmother’s home on the shores of Lake Chelan and in the midst of her apple orchard, now run by Sean’s aunt and uncle.  Fruit is the primary industry in and around Chelan (and a lot of Eastern Washington, actually) but Chelan also thrives as a popular vacation spot in the summer. These days one could easily spend millions for a tiny piece of lakefront property.  However, when Sean’s grandparents settled in the area, they were able to purchase their land, including a large chunk of shorefront, for a price so cheap it would be unheard of today.  Sean took us on a brief tour of the property while we were there, and it was clear to us that the family has taken full advantage of their gorgeous surroundings.  In the main house, the large living room has floor-to-ceiling windows, offering a practically 180 degree view of the lake and the opposite shore.  They live near the end of the lake shore road, so judging by the view alone one might get the feeling they are truly alone in this magnificent landscape.  The house itself is partially built over a rock, which forms part of the wall in the basement.  They also have a hot tub, green house, and boardwalks above the water spanning most of their shorefront.  The boardwalks lead to the family’s own boat launch and dock.  While he was showing us around, Sean told us about the many summers he spent at the house with his cousins, playing on the property and swimming in the lake.  He also pointed out the many spots where one could jump into the lake from various dizzying heights (from the dock, from this part of the boardwalk or that, from the house’s roof).  I think Sean was being quite generous in his estimation of the level of risk I’m willing to take while out for a swim. 

For many years, Sean’s grandparents also used their large property and prime location to operate their own private resort.  Though the resort is no longer open, the small cabins remain on the property, as do the shuffleboard court and miniature golf course built by Sean’s grandfather.  If the weather had been nicer, we would also have enjoyed a walk around the orchards.  Unfortunately, it was a little too chilly for us that day.  Perhaps we will be able to return on another trip. 

After returning from the family visit, we spent the rest of the weekend playing cards, relaxing and taking in the view of the lake and the mountains from our cozy condo.  We enjoyed some tasty food, good wine and great company.  What a wonderful way to start 2012!